Don't drag your feet!
Needed to figure out where
things were going to go before the body was permanently attached to the
frame. Electrical, compressor, air lines, air tank, battery,
switches, valves and the list goes on... Still had to rig up something for
my feet too. At first, some Harley-Davidson pegs that were sitting in a
drawer were likely candidates. A better option would be something that
would slide in and out and also lock in place. Below is what was ended up
with. It bolts on to the front of the tender. If the piping and front
truck weren't in the way, they could have been mounted under the frame
and out of sight completely. Better planning next time, I guess.
The peg has a round plate silver
soldered to one end with a notch cut out (blue arrow). Notches were
also cut out in the bracket (yellow arrows). These notches are used to
lock the pegs in place. They lock in 3 positions, closed, open at 3.5"
and open full at 4.5". The smaller extension is just in case I visit a
R.R. that may have tight clearances.
Here they are locked in the
Here's a side view. It would
have been nice to burry this under the frame but there was too many
things already there.
And here they are fully
extended. The rods are 5/8" SS. I used 5/16-16 bolts (3 each side) to
hold them to the frame.
Also needed to figure out the
lighting for the tender. The side marker lights were purchased. The
center light was made. A pocket was made for the center light for
a water tight fit.
Wanted to get the tender done so
I could steam up the Daylight. I'm getting impatient! Was just going
to rig up some temporary electrical for the air compressor so there's
brakes when I do get her moving, but I figured time spent now would make
life easier later. Once the body shell is mounted to the frame, things
will be much more difficult to get at. It is "very" tight inside the
tender. Other options were looked at, like putting the propane cylinder
in another car but I liked the idea of being able to run the engine with
just the tender. The cylinder was mounted in the tender by tabs welded
to the floor. A pin was used on the front to make it easy to change the
bottle. Several large holes were made in the floor by the propane
tank for ventilation. Now that the cylinder was mounted, it was time to squeeze the
battery, air compressor, charger, switches, wires, hoses, etc. etc. into
any space available. Here's what is looks like so far.
There's been some recent comments on some live steam discussion boards
about putting the air compressor, battery and electronics in the same
compartment as the propane tank. Under certain circumstances, this
could be very dangerous, but the chances are remote. If anyone is following
these plans, and you're not sure of what you are doing, you should
consider relocating the electronics or propane tank to another car.
I stick by my design as I wanted to be able to run my engine with just
the tender and took necessary precautions (proper ventilation, Optima
battery, etc.). I ride motorcycles with 5
gallons of gasoline between my legs doing 60+ MPH. Having propane under
my butt is a risk factor I am willing to take.
Couldn't find room in the tender
for the air tanks so I looked under the floorboards on the Northern to
see if one could be mounted there. There was some room but it would be
small and a pain to mount. More piping would also be required if I went
this route. So.. I decided to use some 2" PVC pipe
(see note below) about 26" long and
placed them on the bottom of the tender under the propane cylinder.
NOTE: The air compressor tanks were
re-made. At first, PVC was used. It was cheap and fast. Heard all kinds
of stories about how PVC should not be used for compressed air.
The opportunity came to make them out of 2" copper pipe. The ID of the
copper pipe is very close to the PVC and has a much smaller OD. They
were drilled/tapped for connecting the hoses and gauges and then painted
black. A pressure
regulator was also added as this was omitted the first time around.
first, the brakes were set to operate at 100psi. This caused the compressor to
run quite a bit. A regulator was added to reduce brake line pressure to
50 PSI. It is variable, so if more or less pressure is need, it can be
Holes were also drilled through
the front floor (picture above) where the connection to the propane tank
is made. Propane is heavier than air and needs to "fall" out of the
tender if a leak ever occurs.
Once everything was crammed
inside, I needed to figure out how to turn things on/off from where I
would be sitting in an operating position. A couple cardboard templates
were made until I found one that works. The plastic piece on the front
left of the picture below is the fuse box.
Some 15 gauge sheet was used to
make the "switch tray" that is mounted on top of everything. The
outline was traced from the cardboard template above. Below shows the
metal tray. The red key is a battery cutoff. In order to get
everything to fit, the fuse box was move under the panel and a low
pressure propane gauge was installed in its place. The gauge reads WC
in inches and not PSI as the burners use 11" WC to operate. The other
switches are for the lights, air compressor and other things. A digital
voltmeter will also be installed at the top of the panel to let me know
the status of the battery (the battery is used to run the air compressor
for the brakes). A panel will be made to cover this area so they will
not be visible during operation.
Been working on the electrical
and crammed everything in a 6" wide compartment under the panel above.
Even found a tiny spot for the "Battery Tender" to charge the battery
(Again, the PVC tanks were
changed to copper for safety)
This picture makes it a bit
easier to see the wiring. The panel on the right is the underside of
the switch panel. The black box at the top left is a 12v to 3v
transformer for the Mars light. It is attached to a panel which is part
of the battery hold down. I told you it was tight!
Here's the wiring diagram.
Electrical wiring was run the
length of the tender to provide electrical power to the engine and the
train. In the picture below you can see the electrical plug on the rear
underside of the tender with the trucks removed. An air quick
disconnect was also installed to make it easier to remove the trucks
without having to cut the brake line (thank you Carl for that
suggestion). The ball valve with the red handle is for draining the
tender. The hole to the left of that is for screwing in the overflow
Here's a closer look at the
quick disconnect for connecting the air supply to the tender brakes.
This piece (which I call the
tool box) goes under the tender between the trucks. It was made out of
15 ga steel.
Here it is temporarily in
place. Still need to make the door and mount the hinges. That can
wait until after I get the Daylight steamed up.
The body and frame are almost
ready to be mounted together.
In this photo, the body is
mounted on the frame and for fit. You can see 2 metal boxes held in
place with clamps. These will be used to install a recessed valve
handle to supply water to the 2 injectors. There is also room in the
recess to mount the tank and line air pressure gauges. The big opening
in the front of the tender is the solution I came up with to get the
40lb propane cylinder in/out of the tender. As mentioned in the frame
section, it is very tight and I couldn't get the cylinder out without
this cutout. A panel will be made to cover it.
Once I get the front of the
tender done, it will FINALLY be time to weld the body to the frame.
Then it's off to the sand blasters.